MERAUKE: LAST STOP IN INDONESIA

AS THE DAILY MORNING FLIGHT ON MERPATI AIR FROM JAYAPURA SLOWLY DESCENDS ACROSS THE SOUTHERN COAST OF THE INDONESIAN PROVINCE OF PAPUA, YOUR SENSES TELL YOU THAT AUSTRALIA'S TOP END IS REAL CLOSE, AND AFTER A WEEK OF TREKKING AROUND INDONESIA'S EASTERNMOST OUTPOST OF MERAUKE AND THE WASUR NATIONAL PARK, WHICH STRETCHES RIGHT TO THE BORDER WITH PAPUA NEW GUINEA, I AM CONVINCED THAT MANY YEARS AGO THIS AMAZING AREA OF SAVANNAH LAND WAS CONNECTED TO THE KAKADU REGION OF AUSTRALIA.

NOW SEPARATED BY THE TORRES STRAIT, THE SIMILARITY OF THESE AREAS IS UNCANNY. TRY TELLING SOMEONE IN AUSTRALIA THAT KANGAROOS AND PLATYPUS EXIST IN THE WILD IN A FOREIGN COUNTRY! THE LOOK WOULD BE DISBELIEF? SOMETIMES IN LIFE YOU JUST HAVE TO GO AND SEE FOR YOURSELF. THAT IS THE REASON WHY I AM LANDING AT MOPAH AIRPORT WITH A SLEEPING BAG AND BACKPACK (ALONG WITH A SURAT JALAN-TRAVEL PERMIT FROM THE INDONESIAN POLICE).

MERAUKE WAS FIRST ESTABLISHED BY THE DUTCH IN THE EARLY 1900'S, AS THE ENGLISH SETTLERS IN NEW GUINEA COMPLAINED THAT HEAD HUNTERS CONDUCTED RAIDS ACROSS THE BORDER FROM THIS REGION. TODAY THE CITY TOTALS AROUND 80,000 PEOPLE AFTER A HUGE TRANS MIGRATION PROGRAM WAS INTRODUCED BY INDONESIA IN THE 1970'S.

MERAUKE IS A DRY AND DUSTY CITY THAT EXTENDS FOR UP TO 7 KILOMETRES FROM NORTH TO SOUTH. BECAUSE OF IT'S CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE OCEAN, MOST STREETS ARE SANDY SOIL, WITH NOT A SINGLE ROCK OR STONE IN THE ENTIRE CITY. BEING VERY FLAT, PUSHBIKES ARE PROMINENT AS A FORM OF TRANSPORT, AND PROBABLY HAS THE MOST TRAFFIC LIGHTS IN A WEST PAPUA CITY!!! IN FACT THE KIDS LINE UP AT NIGHT ON THEIR "PUSHIES" AT THE LIGHTS LIKE A GRAND PRIX RACE START, WAITING FOR THE GREEN LIGHT!

FOR THE TRAVELLER MERAUKE OFFERS MOST FACILITIES LIKE BANKS, INTERNET CAFES, AIRLINE AGENTS, RESTAURANTS, MARKETS AND GREAT CHEAP ACCOMMODATION. THE BEST TWO PLACES ARE HOTEL NAKORA ON JL ERMASU (322287) AND THE MORE UPMARKET ASMAT HOTEL ON JL TRIKORA(321065). THE HUMIDITY IS HIGH SO ROOMS WITH AIR-CON ARE A MUST, BUT POWER BLACKOUTS OCCUR OFTEN. A WALK AROUND THE CITY IS EASY AND WILL REVEAL SOME INCREDIBLE INSIGHT INTO THE PAST. OLD GRAVEYARDS AND LOTS OF HUGE CHURCHES AND THE CHANCE TO WANDER ALONG THE MARO RIVER WITH ITS FISHING BOAT POPULATION. A TRIP TO LOCAL MARKETS WILL BE AN EYE OPENER FOR THOSE NOT USED TO REGULAR FOOD STUFFS (SEE PICTURES). IT IS COMMON TO SEE CASSOWARY AND DOGS FOR SALE AS PROTEIN!! ON SUNDAY THE CITY SEEMS DESERTED AS MOST WANDER OFF TO THE MAIN BEACH FOR DRAG RACING ON THE MUD FLATS AND THE CHANCE TO COOL OFF IN THE MURKY SEA WATER.

THE WASUR NATIONAL PARK IS UNDER CONTROL OF WWF AND THEIR OFFICE ON JL MANDALA IS A GREAT START TO THIS TRIP - ASK FOR MARCO OR RONNI FOR HELP (DROP MY NAME). THEY WILL TAKE YOU TO THE PARK HEADQUARTERS WHERE YOU WILL PAY A FEE FOR PERMIT (40,000rp). YOU CAN EITHER HIRE GUIDES HERE OR TAKE THE TREK ALONE. THE MAIN ROAD LEADS TO SOTAR ON THE PNG BORDER (60KMS) AND IT IS COMMON FOR PASSING CARS TO OFFER YOU LIFTS ALONG THE WAY. IT IS ALL FLAT TERRAIN WITH THE OCCASIONAL BIRD WATCHING PLATFORMS SET UP ON WETLAND AREAS. TO SPEND 2/3 DAYS EXPLORING THIS AREA IS AMAZING AS NO TOURISTS DISTURB THE WILDLIFE. BE CAREFUL OF SNAKES IN THE GRASSLANDS. TAKE SLEEPING GEAR AS YOU WILL SPEND NIGHTS IN VILLAGE HUTS (PAYMENT IS MINIMAL). ALSO BRING YOUR OWN SUPPLIES OF FOOD AS THERE ARE NO STORES OUT HERE. THE LANDSCAPE IS FULL OF HUGE TERMITE MOUNDS, WITH SMALL LAGOONS OFF THE MAIN TRACKS. THIS IS WHERE YOU CAN VIEW AN INCREDIBLE SYSTEM OF WILDLIFE (BIRDS, KANGAROOS,PLATYPUS, ECHIDNAS AND MORE). ONE OF THE WORLD'S LONGEST SPECIES OF LIZARD (SALVATORI) IS A COMMON SIGHT WANDERING THROUGH THE SAVANNAH IN SEARCH OF THE RED TERMITES. FOR THOSE ART LOVERS LOOKING FOR SOME ASMAT WOOD CARVINGS IN MERAUKE,THE RANGE IS SMALL AND HARD TO FIND. TRY A SMALL SUPERMARKET ON JL ERMASU (200 METRES FROM NAKORA HOTEL). YOU WILL NOTICE THE CARVINGS HANGING IN THE FRONT WINDOW. THE OWNER HAS A GOOD RANGE AT THE REAR OF THE SHOP.

HOPE YOU ENJOY THIS GREAT LAND.

DON FOSTER/JULY 2007

THE BIRD'S HEAD PENINSULA OF PAPUA. SORONG AND SURROUNDS.

THIS JOURNEY TOOK ME TO THE VERY TOP OF THE ISLAND OF PAPUA NEW GUINEA,INTO THE INDONESIAN PROVINCE OF PAPUA AND THE AREA CALLED "THE BIRD'S HEAD",DUE TO A STRIKING LAND THAT RESEMBLES A BIRD WITH BODY AND HEAD ON MAPS.THE AREA AROUND SORONG(PAPUA'S SECOND LARGEST CITY BEHIND JAYAPURA)HAS RECENTLY ATTRACTED WORLD ATTENTION FROM MARINE BIOLOGIST'S FOR IT'S ABILITY TO SUSTAIN GREAT ECO SYSTEMS IN THE WATERS AND JUNGLES,MANY SPECIES OF PREVIOUSLY UNRECORDED MARINE LIFE HAVE BEEN IDENTIFIED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS.THE CENTRAL HUB IS SORONG WHICH EXPERIENCED A BOOM IN THE LATE 1930'S WHEN DUTCH SHELL DISCOVERED OIL CLOSE BY,UP UNTIL THE MID 60'S THE TOWN WAS SITUATED JUST OFF THE MAINLAND ON DUM ISLAND,THE WORD DUM IN LOCAL LANGUAGE ACTUALLY TRANSLATES TO ISLAND,THE ISLAND IS STILL A VIBRANT MIX OF LOCAL CULTURE,EASILY ACCESSIBLE FROM SORONG BY LONGBOAT FERRYS,WITH THIN PATHWAYS ALL AROUND THE ISLAND IT'S A FANTASTIC HALFDAY ADVENTURE.WITH A NEW AIRPORT SORONG IS A BUSTLING CITY,BUILT ALONG THE SEASIDE IT STRETCHES FOR AROUND 5 KILOMETRES ALONG THE HARBOUR WITH INCREDIBLE SUNSETS AND SEARING AFTERNOON SUN OFF THE EQUATOR.ACCOMODATION IS BASIC WITH THE BEST VALUE HOTEL'S BEING WAIGEO AND TANJUNG ON JL JOS SURDASO,AIR CONDITIONING IS A MUST IN THE HEAT, AND ROOMS COST AROUND 225,000 RUPIAH(35 AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS)PER NIGHT.LIKE MOST OF THE LARGER INDONESIAN CITY'S,RESTAURANTS SERVE GOOD VALUE TASTY FOOD,WITH SEAFOOD HIGH ON THE LIST HERE,TOP PICK WAS THE SUNRISE CAFE ON JL JOS SURDASO RIGHT NEXT TO THE HARBOUR,GOOD SERVICE AND BINTANG BEER AVAILABLE!!THE BEST PART OF BEING HERE IS THE AVAILABILITY TO GO AND EXPLORE SOME MIND BLOWING AREAS LIKE THE "RAJA EMPAT" ISLANDS,WHICH RATE HIGHLY WITH WORLD DIVING GROUPS AS A SPECIAL PLACE,THE FOUR ISLANDS ARE "BATANTA","WAIGEO","SALAWATI"AND "MISOOL",ALL ARE SANCTUARY'S FOR BIRDS OF PARADISE WITH AN INCREDIBLE RANGE OF EXOTIC BIRD SPECIES,WITH NO TRANSPORT SYSTEMS IN PLACE SO YOU WILL NEED TO USE YOUR SKILLS IN OBTAINING LIFTS TO PLACES,LONGBOAT HIRE IS AVAILABLE FROM THE HARBOUR IN SORONG,THE TRIP TO BATANTA TAKES AROUND 4 HOURS,VERY LITTLE ENGLISH IS SPOKEN HERE ,SO YOU WILL NEED TO NEGOTIATE PRICES IN BAHASA.I USED "OJEKS" (PRIVATE MOTORCYCLE HIRE)TO TAKE THE JOURNEY NORTH ALONG THE COAST,A FANTASTIC MORNING TRIP IS TO HEAD OUT OF SORONG TO CASSOWARY POINT WHICH IS ABOUT 10 KMS FROM SORONG AND USED AS A WEEKEND GETAWAY FOR LOCALS,GREAT SWIMMING WITH WHITE CORAL SAND BEACHES.FOR A FULL DAY TRIP TRY THE JOURNEY NORTH TOWARDS SAUSAPOUR,YOU WILL PASS THE INLAND LAGOON AREA CALLED MAKBON DISTRICT WITH SWEEPING VIEWS ACROSS THE OCEAN AND ALONG THE COAST,A SHORT DISTANCE LATER ASKED TO BE TAKEN INTO MALAUMKARTA VILLAGE,WHERE IF YOU ASK NICELY AND MENTION THIS ARTICLE,FOR A GOOD PRICE THE LOCAL VILLAGES WILL TAKE YOU BY BANANA BOAT OUT TO THE ISLANDS WHERE YOU CAN VIEW THE ECO SYSTEMS IN FULL SWING,THE WILDLIFE/BATS/TURTLES/SHARKS WILL ASTOUND YOU ,THE LOCALS FULLY UNDERSTAND HOW THIS SYSTEM EVOLVES AND DON'T BE SCARED TO ASK LOT'S OF QUESTIONS!!THE TRIP BACK ACROSS THE REEF TO THEIR ANCESTRY VILLAGE WILL GIVE YOU A SENSE OF PARADISE LOST.DO NOT RUSH THINGS AS MELANESIAN CULTURE IS WORTH SPENDING TIME WITH,ALSO ASK TO SEE THE GIANT CAVE OF BATS ON THE WAY BACK TO THE MAIN ROAD.FURTHER NORTH ALONG THE COAST IS THE VILLAGE OF SAUSAPAUR("THE PLACE TO COMMEMORATE THE DEAD"),THIS IS WHERE IN OLDEN TIMES THE PAPUANS LAUNCHED RAIDS INTO THE ASIAN SEAS AS PIRATES OF THE SEAS,THEY WOULD RETURN AS HEROES TO HERE.WITH SORONG HAVING A NEW AIRPORT,FLIGHTS ARRIVE AND DEPART FREQUENTLY,THE AIRPORT CODE IS SOQ,YOU CAN ALSO GET CONNECTING FLIGHTS TO SMALLER REMOTE LOCATIONS LIKE FAK FAK AND MANOKWARI.A WONDERFUL FRIENDLY WELCOME IS ON THE CARDS WHEN YOU STOP BY "THE BIRD'S HEAD".INDAH TEMPAT!!

DON FOSTER.

LAKE KUTUBU: WHERE TWO WORLDS COLLIDE

TWO OF PAPUA NEW GUINEA'S GREATEST ASSETS ARE AT WORK SIDE BY SIDE IN THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS, INCREDIBLE BEAUTIFUL NATURAL SCENERY AND THE RICH RESOURCES OF THE MINING SECTOR. LAKE KUTUBU IS AN AMAZING SHEET OF SAPPHIRE BLUE WATER, 19 KILOMETRES LONG AND UP TO 4 KMS WIDE, SITTING 800 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL WITH AN ANNUAL RAINFALL OF 50,000 MM. IT IS HOME TO A STUNNING COLLECTION OF WILDLIFE AND FAUNA. ONE OF ONLY 5 NATIONAL PARKS WITHIN PNG, THIS AREA HAS ATTRACTED FIELD TRIPS FROM SPECIALISTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD, THE LOCAL PEOPLE ARE VERY AWARE OF WHAT THEY HAVE IN THEIR FRONTYARDS, AND FULLY AWARE WHAT LIES DEEP UNDERGROUND ACROSS THEIR LAND. 50,000 BARRELS OF OIL ARE PUMPED THROUGH PIPES DOWN TO THE GULF REFINERY EVERYDAY BY THE COMPANY OIL SEARCH. THEY TOOK OVER THE PROJECT FROM CHEVRON 3 YEARS AGO AND CONTINUE TO BE OPTIMISTIC ABOUT THE FUTURE LENGTH OF RESERVES IN THE KUTUBU AREA. HOW DO THESE OPPOSITES WORK TOGETHER? THE LOCAL LAND OWNERS CONSIST OF THE FOI AND FASU PEOPLE, WITH SO MUCH AT STAKE FINANCIALLY AND CULTURALLY THEY HAVE ELECTED STRONG LEADERS TO NEGOTIATE WITH THE MINING COMPANYS. ROADS, SCHOOLS, AND HEALTH CENTRES ARE IMPORTANT FOR THEIR FUTURE WHEN THE OIL RUNS OUT. ON MY RECENT VISIT TO LAKE KUTUBU, IT WAS AMAZING TO BE ON THE LAKE AND NOT REALISE THAT 12 KILOMETRES AWAY A COMMUNITY OF 1500 WORKERS WITH 24 HOUR ELECTRICITY, COMPUTERS, CATERING, AIR CONDITIONING AND ALL MOD CONS WAS RUNNING 24 HOURS A DAY, 365 DAYS A YEAR. THE ONLY INDICATION YOU GET WHILE YOU SIT AMONGST THE PEACEFULLNESS OF NATURE IS THE SOUND OF HELICOPTERS ON THE MOVE FROM NEARBY MORO AIRSTRIP MOVING GOODS UP TO THE MAIN RIDGE CAMP. THE BIGGEST IMPACT OF THE MINING BOOM IS THE INFLUX OF PEOPLE FROM OTHER AREAS INTO THE KUTUBU REGION AND THE WAY IT HAS CHANGED THE LOCAL LIFESTYLE. HUGE AMOUNTS OF MENDI AND TARI PEOPLE FROM THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE HAVE MOVED INTO THE LAKE AREA TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE EXTRA WEALTH AND OPPORTUNITYS FOR WORK, WITH THIS COMES THE BIG CHANGE, STAPLE FOOD USED TO BE SAGO AND FISH, NOW ITS RICE AND TINNED FISH, SQUATTERS BUILD HOMES ANYWHERE, MARKETS AT MORO SELL IMPORTED GOODS FROM ASIAN IMPORTERS AT CHEAP PRICES, BUT THE QUALITY HAS LOCALS ANGRY AT BEING RIPPED OFF. PUBLIC MOTOR VEHICLES (SMALL 20 SEATER BUSES) ARE IN HIGH DEMAND FOR THE TRIP TO MENDI (4HOURS). IT IS USUAL TO SEE AT LEAST 30 TOURING THE MORO MARKETS PICKING UP PASSENGERS FOR THE MORNING DASH TO MENDI, THEN RETURNING IN THE AFTERNOON WITH MORE STOCKS TO SELL AT TRADE STORES AND MARKETS. AMONGST ALL THE CRAZINESS OF A "GOLD RUSH"THE ACTUAL LAKE RETAINS ITS SERENITY WITH ABSOLUTE DIGNITY. THE LACK OF TOURISTS HAS MORE TO DO WITH THE LAWLESSNESS OF ACTUALLY TRAVELLING AROUND THE ROADS IN THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS WHERE ROBBERY, TRIBAL FIGHTING, AND MURDERS HAS BEEN A CONSTANT FOR MANY YEARS. LATE IN 2006 THE PNG GOVERNMENT DECLARED THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS A STATE OF EMERGENCY, WITH INCREASED POLICE AND ARMY PATROLS THE ABILITY TO TRAVEL BY ROAD SAFELY IS ONCE AGAIN AN OPTION. FOR THE TOURIST LAKE KUTUBU CAN PROVIDE AN EXPERIENCE TO CHERISH FOREVER. LODGES ARE LIMITED WITH ONLY 2 PROVIDING ANY FORM OF SLEEPING FACILITYS. BY FAR THE STANDOUT IS THE TUBO LODGE, LOCATED ON AN ISLAND IN THE LAKE. ACCESS IS BY MOTORISED CANOE FROM TUGIRI OR BY HELICOPTER! IT HAS 3 BUNGALOWS MADE FROM BUSH MATERIALS, NO ELECTRICITY SO AT NIGHT IT'S TORCH OR CANDLES. NATURE IS AT YOUR DOORSTEP IN THIS AMAZING "ROBINSON CRUSOE" STYLE OF LIVING. THE VIEWS FROM THE DINING AREA ACROSS THE LAKE ARE BREATHTAKING. TOURS AROUND THE LAKE ARE IN DUG OUT CANOES - ASK ABOUT A TRIP TO THE ANCIENT BURIAL SITE, WHICH LOCALS REFER TO AS 'SKULL CAVES". ASK FOR NORMAN OR PENNY. E.MAIL BOOKINGS ONLY AT norman@daltron.com.pg... IT IS TRULY WONDERFUL BUT NOT FOR EVERYONE. THE ONLY OTHER BEDS ARE LOCATED AT OBEAGA GUEST HAUS ON THE MAIN ROAD TO MORO JUST NEAR INU. POOR QUALITY ROOMS BUT COOKING FACILITYS ARE AVAILABLE. THE CURRENT BUZZ WORD IS ECO-TOURISM,WITH TALK OF AN UPMARKET LODGE ON WASEMI ISLAND. ALSO A SMALL LODGE AT INU VILLAGE IS BEING PLANNED. LET'S HOPE IT COMES TRUE. THE REMOTENESS OF KUTUBU WILL GIVE YOU A SENSE OF TOTALLY LEAVING THE WORLD BEHIND. SURROUNDED BY BUTTERFLIES THE SIZE OF SMALL BIRDS, NIGHT CICADAS THE SIZE OF BEER BOTTLES, BIRDS THAT SING SONGS YOU'VE NEVER HEARD BEFORE, SPIDERS AND SNAKES THAT DEFY LOGIC. JUNGLE TREES WITH HIDDEN AGENDAS, PEOPLE FISHING FROM CANOES LIKE THEIR ANCESTORS, ALONG WITH THE CONSTANT SOUND OF CHOPPER ROTOR BLADES. FOR THOSE LOOKING TO GET INTO THE KUTUBU AREA, AIRLINES PNG FLIES FROM PORT MORESBY TO MORO 3 TIMES WEEKLY. THE CODE FOR MORO IS MXH, TRIP TIME 90 MINUTES. YOU CAN ALSO CATCH A BUS FROM MENDI. LISTEN FOR THE CALL OF MORO TO MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT ONE, THEY LEAVE AFTER 12 FROM THE TOWN CENTRE, BUT NEVER UNTIL IT'S FILLED! SEE YOU ON THE LAKE!

DON FOSTER

P.N.G.:THE MIGHTY SEPIK RIVER

A detailed introduction on the path along one of the most incredible rivers in the world.

top photo..the road ends at Pagwi!!!

middle...my mate the best guide on the sepik,chris and yours truly at Ambunti,sepik in back.

bottom...spirit house at Maprik.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA:SURFING ON OUR DOORSTEP

An introduction into finding great waves on the north coast of Papua New Guinea.

top photo...break at vanimo

right top...local kids at murik lakes

bottom...png/indonesia border

PAPUA NEW GUINEA:SORCERY,SPELLS AND SPIRITS

This is a story written over many years of being allowed on the inside of black magic rituals in P.N.G.These are first hand accounts.

top photo...bones of ancestors at dragon cave

left bottom...200 year old mummified man

right bottom..."duk duk",spirit man,east sepik

WEST PAPUA: THE LOST WORLD

This is a piece I wrote on the Baliem Valley in the mountains of West Papua based on my treks in 2005.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA HIGHLANDS: THE PEOPLE IN THE CLOUDS

Here is a story I wrote in 2006 after a wild trip to the PNG Highlands.

Top picture....tribal fight in southern highlands.

Middle picture....Goroka market.

Bottom picture...Waghi Valley, Western Highlands.